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Your neighbourhood guide to Jordan

By Inés Fung 3 March 2020

Header image courtesy of Oliver Grimm

There’s more to Jordan than the world-famous Temple Street Night Market. Jordan, alongside Yau Ma Tei, is a microcosm of working-class Hong Kong, in addition to being a neighbourhood that simultaneously embraces local traditions as well as cultural diversity. Jordan also has a lot to offer when it comes to good eats and authentic shopping experiences. Follow our ultimate neighbourhood guide for the best spots to shop and eat, as well as cool things to do in Jordan!

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Where to shop

Yue Hwa Chinese Products Emporium

Towering over the busy Nathan Road and Jordan Road junction since 1976 is Yue Hwa Chinese Products Emporium, one of Hong Kong’s last remaining traditional Chinese department stores. You’ll find a celebration of all things Chinese inside this five-storey behemoth: genuine traditional Chinese medicine, authentic Mao Tai wine, beautiful brocades, simple daily necessities, and so much more. The top floor is entirely reserved for precious Chinese tea, with vendors doling out tastings so you can try before you buy.

Yue Hwa Chinese Products Emporium, 301–309 Nathan Road | (+852) 3511 2222

Guitarsofa

Guitarsofa’s namesake sits underneath a gorgeous, carefully curated guitar collection, a cosy black couch where local musos have made indents on the cushions jamming for hours. Founded in 2006 with the intention of being a place where guitar lovers, or just music lovers in general, could come together, Guitarsofa has now grown to be one of Hong Kong’s premier electric and acoustic guitar stores, with everything from custom Fenders to rare low-production brands. They’re also happy to resell your high quality used guitars! The staff are friendly, knowledgeable, and always ready to shred.

Guitar Sofa, 5/F, Lee Kong Commercial Building, 115 Woosung Street, Jordan | (+852) 2314 2122

Photo credit: @escape.hk

Biu Kee Mahjong

Biu Kee’s Mr Cheung Shun King is one of three remaining artisan mahjong tile carvers in Hong Kong and has been honing his craft since his early teens. Mr Cheung creates full sets of vibrant tiles, each unique, as well as customisable tiles that his loyal customers or avid collectors often request with lucky sayings. The crafting of artisanal mahjong tiles is so meticulous that it’s been listed as a local “intangible heritage,” and with no one to take over his shop, Mr Cheung’s old-school tiles may soon be obsolete...

Biu Kee Mahjong, G/F, 26F Jordan Road | (+852) 2730 4028

Temple Street Night Market

Night falls, and Temple Street comes alive with bustling crowds, sharp-tongued vendors, and rowdy entertainers like fortune tellers and singers. The entrance to the market is flanked by an enormous gate, signalling your entry to a world of knock-off brand name goods, ethnic bric-a-brac, and awesome street food. Bargaining is key here, as is customary at street markets. If you’ve got the time and patience, you’ll find the precious needles in the chaotic haystack: antiques, silk brocades, Chinese embroidery, rare herbs, and more.

Keep scrolling for the rest of the guide 👇

Things to do and sights to see

Experience local grassroots culture

Tourists visit Temple Street for the novelty of it all, but to the Jordan locals, they’ve seen and heard more than we could imagine. To truly experience the bustling nightlife of a bygone era, keep an open mind and visit some of the fortune-teller stalls that dot the market lanes. Each fortune teller has a unique way of divining your future, but we love the one stall that features a very talented bird that picks a slip of paper that supposedly contains your untold fortunes.

Be sure to listen closely, as you’ll find the Cantonese opera singers giving it their all just a stone’s throw away. Some of these performers are amateur hobbyists looking for vocal practice, and some are retired professionals who have every Cantonese opera classic in their repertoire. Cantonese opera is definitely an acquired taste, and Temple Street is the perfect way to get a taster for it and appreciate this ancient art.

Photo credit: Wikimedia Commons

King George V Memorial Park

Not to be confused with the park in Sai Ying Pun that’s dedicated to the same monarch, King George V Memorial Park is a welcome splash of greenery amongst the urban sprawl of Jordan. It’s stood the test of time, lasting through the war and still standing as a refuge in the dense heat of the neighbourhood. Its Chinese pavilions and archways welcome the multicultural people of Jordan into its fields and playgrounds and chess tables at all times, and there’s always a friendly match going on in the pitches shaded by banyans and pines. Take a breather here when you’re tired from your Jordan excursion.

Kowloon Cricket Club

If you’ve got a membership to the Kowloon Cricket Club, this sports and social club should need no introduction. The beautiful colonial-era clubhouse has overseen the development of cricket in Hong Kong since before the war and now continues to provide a home for the local teams. It’s easy to miss from the outside, but from above the perfectly manicured cricket pitch shines as another patch of greenery in the highly developed neighbourhood.

Kowloon Cricket Club, 10 Cox’s Road, Jordan

Kowloon Union Church

Kowloon Union Church is a beautiful red-brick place of worship in the heart of the busy neighbourhood. English-speaking followers fill the neo-gothic halls of this independent, inter-denominational, and international church every Sunday, as they have since before the war. The unusual (for a church, at least) Chinese tiled roof not only makes the building typhoon-proof but very photogenic as well.

Kowloon Union Church, 4 Jordan Road, Jordan

Keep scrolling for the rest of the guide 👇

Where to eat and drink

Everyone recognises and remembers the good old faithfuls of Jordan, such as Australia Dairy Company, Mak Man Kee Noodles, Tong Tai Seafood Restaurant, and Kai Kai Desserts, just to name a few. We’d like to showcase a different side of dining options in the neighbourhood.

Photo credit: @browngirlinhk

Manakamana

It can be hard to find Manakamana, a Nepali restaurant named after a sacred temple in the Himalayas, as it’s tucked behind the busy market stalls of Temple Street. It’s a hidden gem where curry lovers pay pilgrimage, tucking into rich and flavourful curries with fish, mutton, and chicken, as well as Southeast Asian snacks like momos and panipuri. We recommend getting a Nepali thali, a set feast of dahls, dips, curries, and spicy pickles presented on a tray.

Manakamana, 165 Temple Street, Jordan | (+852) 2385 8293

Photo credit: @soya1314 / OpenRice

Tim Kee French Sandwiches

We’ve previously talked about Tim Kee in our bánh mì round-up, but their sandwiches are so tasty they deserve a second mention. There are only three offerings on the menu: A Large Bánh Mì ($76) that can be shared between four people (if you like), a Small Bánh Mì ($39), and Garlic Bread ($9). The friendly Uncle Ho runs a one-man-band, toasting and filling up to 150 baguettes a day and making all the fillings from scratch. Tim Kee is well-loved by locals and foodies alike, and their longevity stems from its long opening hours and simple food that hits the spot.

Tim Kee French Sandwiches, Shop A, G/F, Man Yiu Building, 30 Man Yuen Street, Jordan | (+852) 2385 7939

Vuong’s French Sandwich

If you prefer more options when you’re craving a bánh mì, head to Vuong’s French Sandwich, a small neighbourhood shop serving sandwiches and other Vietnamese favourites that are perfect for a quick pick-me-up. Vuong’s sources all of their ingredients from Vietnam, and the bánh mì come in large, small, and mini sizes depending on your appetite. While you can go for the classic fillings like mixed pork or grilled chicken, Vuong’s also offers a vegetarian baguette, so no one will miss out! As Vuong’s is takeout-only, why not grab some sammies and have a picnic at KGV Memorial Park?

Vuong’s French Sandwich, Shop B4, G/F, 1 Tak Hing Street, Jordan | (+852) 2658 3800

Bedana’s Filipino Restaurant & Bar

Bedana’s came highly recommended by our Filipino friends as a place to experience authentic Filipino cuisine. Their sinigang na baboy (tamarind soup with pork belly and vegetables) and lechon kawali (deep-fried pork belly) are favourites of our team, but if you’re looking for something heartier still, try their silog sets that come with rice, a fried egg, and assorted grilled meats. Finish your meal off with a refreshing bowl of halo-halo, and you’ll be ready to slip into a food coma… that is, if you can keep yourself from cracking jokes with the amiable local Filipino staff.

Bedana’s Filipino Restaurant & Bar, G/F, 113 Woosung Street, Jordan Road, Jordan | (+852) 2542 3088

Keep scrolling for the rest of the guide 👇

Tony’s Hell

Don’t judge Tony’s Hell by its name—it’s actually a super cosy neighbourhood spot with a creative secret menu that’s sure to impress. Chef Tony switches up the menu nightly, using seasonal ingredients to cook up a storm of five courses and keep customers guessing. For just $300 more, you can also enjoy two fresh seafood courses, also prepared perfectly by Chef Tony. If you prefer to know exactly what you’re eating, the a la carte menu is full of comfort food crowd-pleasers. Service is always personable and you’ll definitely come back again, even if you don’t live in Jordan.

Tony’s Hell, G/F, 38 Man Yuen Street, Jordan | (+852) 5724 4537

Photo credit: @food_stoppp

MAW

The aptly named MAW uses one speciality ingredient in their whole menu, known locally for its kidney replenishing properties and richness in calcium in protein. Can you guess what it is? That’s right, it’s fish maw. The owners have close ties with a fish maw supplier and the quality of their ingredients definitely shines through in their innovative dishes like popcorn fish maw, fish maw almond sweet soup and truffle and maw scrambled eggs on toast. You can also have it traditionally in soups or stews. We know it’s not for everyone, but we applaud the concept and the heart put into the restaurant.

MAW, Shop 5, G/F, Parkes Residence, 101 Parkes Street, Jordan | (+852) 2885 1038

Photo credit: @cacacarrie / OpenRice

Ferry Point BBQ

Open till the wee hours of the night is Ferry Point BBQ, a Japanese kushiyaki joint with some of the best seafood around. They specialise in massive Hiroshima oysters, fresh shucked and delicious raw, grilled, or in soup. Come between the hours of 10 to close for 20 percent off your bill.

Ferry Point BBQ, 18 Man Yuen Street, Jordan

Hao De Lai Dumplings

We were going to keep Hao De Lai a secret, but good things are meant to be shared. Staffed by a team of local Shanghainese people, the menu is simple but heartwarming. The standout here is the delicate xiao long bao—hand-wrapped with 16 pleats on a thin wrapper and perfectly soupy in the middle, but not easily broken. Portions are decently sized, enough to share with your friends and family, but who are we kidding, we smash two steamers worth of dumplings to ourselves on the regular.

Hao De Lai Dumplings, G/F, 18 Tak Hing Street Jordan | (+852) 2377 9488

Big Grains

This boutique Japanese bakery specialises in artisanal bakes, free of additives and preservatives. Depending on the product, bread dough can be fermented for more than 72 hours and a baking schedule informs guests of when their favourite flavours will come fresh out of the oven. Using premium French butter and flour, Big Grains covers the classic croissants, baguette, and brioche, as well as novel sweet buns like Otowa Red Bean Bun and Walnut Praline Brioche. Their intricate pastries and unique collection is worth a visit!

Big Grains, G/F, 61 Parkes Street, Jordan | (+852) 3702 0186

Studio Caffeine

It may be hard to tell from the outside, but this cosy little coffee shop is bestowed with multiple barista, latte art, and brewing awards. Studio Caffeine takes their joe very seriously and even roast their beans in-house for the fullest flavour profile, which you can purchase for at-home brewing as well. If you’re feeling peckish, they also do a bang-up job of putting together all-day breakfast platters, bagel sandwiches, and open-faced butter brioches.

Studio Caffeine, G/F, 284 Temple Street, Jordan | (+852) 27933480

Horizonte Lounge

Did you know that Jordan has its very own chic rooftop bar that could rival any of its peers overlooking the harbour? Horizonte Lounge is located on the top floor of the Hotel Madera, and they have a great whisky menu. On a clear day you’ll have stunning views of Kowloon all the way out to The Peak on Hong Kong Island to go with your tipple.

Horizonte Lounge, Hotel Madera, 29/F, Hotel Madera, 1 Cheong Lok St, Jordan

Terrible Baby

We would all be terrible babies if we didn’t get some drinks in us. The stylish Terrible Baby bar is the watering hole for thirsty folks from all walks of life. Come for a casual cocktail, chill out on the outdoor terrace or even catch a gig from an indie artist.

Terrible Baby, 4/F, Eaton Hotel, 380 Nathan Road, Jordan

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Inés Fung

Contributor

Currently based in Hong Kong by way of Calgary, Inés has always had a passion for writing and her creative work can be found in obscure literary ’zines. When she’s not busy scouring the city for the best gin-based cocktail, she can be found curled up with her journal and fur-ever friend Peanut. Don’t be surprised if you cross paths with her and she already knows all your mates.

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