⇨ Immerse yourself in history and culture
Yau Ma Tei has resisted gentrification and remained a cosy area where you can still glimpse the old way of life. Looking at it now, you would never imagine that a century ago it was the home of Hakka boat-people and farmers, thanks to its fertile valley landscape and peaceful harbour. There are many seedy stories about the neighbourhood, yes, and the illustrious nightlife that was the backbone of it still persists in quieter pockets, but it really just adds to the charm.
Yau Ma Tei Theatre was once the largest theatre in Kowloon, standing on the junction of Waterloo Road and Reclamation Street. It’s the only pre-war theatre building in Hong Kong still standing, and plans for it to become a permanent venue for Cantonese opera is in the works.
Close by is the Yau Ma Tei Old Police Station, where films like Rush Hour 2 and many local TV shows have been filmed. A classic, intimidating building that serves as a reminder to the unsavoury history of the neighbourhood. It currently stands as a reporting centre, as the modern police station is a few blocks away.
Tin Hau Temple used to be on the shorefront of Yau Ma Tei. The harbour has since made way for urban development, but locals and fisherman still worship Tin Hau and Bao Gong (the God of Justice) in the colourful temple, and families still gather in the shade of the enormous banyan tree in the courtyard. It’s a place where you can still feel the air of community, strength, and kinship that binds the locals together.
In YMT you’ll find one of Hong Kong’s last remaining “singalong parlours”—Canton Singing House. It’s a true nostalgic gem, filled with shiny disco balls and singers with a devout following. Everyone inside has a story to tell, and who knows, maybe if you tip well, they’ll share it with you too.
Broadway Cinematheque has been a hub for cinephiles in Hong Kong for over 2 decades. Screening indie and arthouse films, showing filmmaker retrospectives, and hosting local and international film festivals, it’s an independent institution that Hong Kong needs. Broadway Cinematheque also houses a café, bookstore and DVD store. Stop by and enjoy a movie in any of its four houses, maybe you’ll find a new favourite film that no one else has heard of.