Header images courtesy of @lucyskrine and @lundi.vintage (via Instagram)
With its MTR station located just 400 metres from Mong Kok’s, Prince Edward doesn’t have quite enough playing room to be a fully-fledged neighbourhood—in fact, it’s often referred to as a part of Mong Kok. But Prince Edward has managed to squeeze in some of Hong Kong’s most famous markets as well as a bevy of great eats and quirky cafés within its strict geographical confines, which warrants a neighbourhood guide, in our opinion. Without further ado, read on for our tips on where to eat, drink, and shop in Prince Edward. (Okay, it’s mostly focused on eating and drinking. But Mong Kok’s right there!)
Just past the flower market is the famed Yuen Po Street Bird Garden, where you can find elderly Chinese men with their pet birds on any given day. The space, which is designed in the style of a traditional Chinese garden, is often filled with the sounds of birdsong and friendly chatter between the birds’ owners. Peek into the stores that line Yuen Po Street to see handmade wooden cages as well as a vast variety of pet birds for sale.
Yuen Po Street Bird Garden, Yuen Po Street, Prince Edward
If you’re looking for something out-of-the-box to do in Prince Edward, put your thinking caps on and pop into this board game café for an afternoon of family-friendly fun. Take your pick from over 300 board games, from role-playing games to classic strategy games, word games, and detective games. Jolly Thinkers does normally serve light refreshments, but in-store dining has been temporarily suspended due to the pandemic.
Jolly Thinkers, 14/F Capricorn Centre, 155 Sai Yeung Choi Street North, Prince Edward | (+852) 3107 1160
With thousands of years of history and countless varieties (varie-teas?), Chinese tea deserves to be studied and appreciated with the same academic rigour that sommeliers apply to wine. Now, you too can develop your exper-tease at a tea appreciation course at the Hong Kong Sommelier & Bar Training College, where an experienced instructor will guide you through the history and health benefits of tea, as well as the proper methods of storage, preparation, and consumption.
Hong Kong Sommelier & Bartender Training College, 11/F, Wai Hing Building, 148 Prince Edward Road West, Prince Edward | (+852) 2391 5688
The big attraction in Prince Edward is the flower market, which is so widely considered to be Hong Kong’s definitive place to get plants and blooms that it’s colloquially referred to as “fa hui” (花墟; flower market) without any need for identifiers. Here, you can find everything from cut flowers to potted ferns, manicured bonsai trees, dried flowers, easy-going succulents, and every seed and bulb imaginable.
Flower Market, Flower Market Road, Mong Kok
If the flower market is all about variety and catering for every taste, then A Beautiful Store is all about careful, considered curation. This minimalist Japanese-style lifestyle boutique sells everything from homeware to personal care and clothing sourced from all over the globe—but the common theme that runs throughout the inventory is that every item is deliberately selected to fit with the store’s aesthetic and ethos. Sustainability, durability, and craftsmanship are at the heart of A Beautiful Store—so you can pore over handcrafted ceramics, organic cotton robes, and hand-blown glass drinkware without feeling guilty about contributing to unfair business practices. Just remember to bring a bag!
A Beautiful Store, 3/F, 194 Prince Edward Road West, Prince Edward
For a thoroughly Hong Kong shopping experience, go bargain-hunting in teeny-tiny “cube stores” at a local micro-mall—Allied Plaza, which is literally next to exit B2 of Prince Edward MTR station, is one such example. The boutiques source from similar—if not the exact same—sellers in Japan and Korea, so expect to get very familiar with the trending styles in Dongdaemun (not that that’s a bad thing). There are definitely some gems to be discovered, and one benefit of having a lot of vendors selling similar tat is that you can do a little price tag cross-referencing if you find something that tickles your fancy.
Allied Plaza, 760 Nathan Road, Prince Edward
Browse the racks of modest, vintage-inspired womenswear from local brand Lazynoon at their Prince Edward showroom. The clothing, which is sourced from Korea, typically leans towards feminine office-friendly looks with a dash of whimsy—think ruffles, prints, and asymmetrical cuts. Located in a heritage building at the flower market, this sun-dappled shop space also occasionally plays host to pop-ups by other local brands, with the most recent one being a homeware market from vintage dealers Lundi. Just make sure to check their social media ahead of time, as they’re not always open.
Lazynoon, 3/F, 192 Prince Edward Road West, Prince Edward
Feelin’ crafty? Get your hands on everything from your basic, run-of-the-mill stationery supplies to supersized acrylic paint pots, resin, masks, fabric paint, and tissue paper in every colour under the sun at Craft Supplies. Whatever your creative plans are—within reason—this store is likely to have what you need in order to put pen (or brush) to paper.
Craft Supplies, 173 Sai Yee Street, Prince Edward | (+852) 2392 0969
My Book Room might look like a regular office from the outside, but in case the piles of books stacked on every available surface weren’t enough of a giveaway, this isn’t just any old commercial unit (even if the fluorescent lighting says otherwise). This second-hand book store’s massive inventory of well-loved tomes is available in both Chinese and English, and centres largely on the humanities—literature, social science, philosophy, and history. There aren’t any fixed prices, so you’ll have to brush up on your haggling skills—maybe they have a book on that?—but it’s all part of the experience.
My Book Room, G/F, 79 Lai Chi Kok Road, Prince Edward | (+852) 6121 8222
A favourite among celebrities, food writers, and chefs alike, Ju Xing Home is a hole-in-the-wall in Prince Edward famed for its dai pai dong-style Cantonese fare and spicy Sichuan broth-poached dishes. The restaurant, which is open until 2 am, is known for being a late-night hotspot, especially with food and beverage industry workers coming off long shifts. Besides the stir-fried dishes—which are bestowed with that all-important wok hei—must-orders include the salt-baked chicken (starting from $228), the sweet & sour pork ribs ($88), roasted pigeon ($68 each) and poached grouper with pickled mustard greens ($498).
Ju Xing Home, 417 Portland Street, Prince Edward | (+852) 2392 9283
To the people who (rightly) consider cheung fun (腸粉; steamed rice rolls) to be one of the best things about dim sum, this is the spot for you. Superior Steamed Rice Roll Pro Shop might be a mouthful, but by god, what a mouthful—the soft, pillowy rice rolls here are stuffed with a variety of fillings which range from classic (char siu) to unconventional-yet-delicious (daikon radish in pork sauce, shredded barbecue duck, and Shunde fishcake). All the rice rolls are priced at $26, so you can try a few without breaking the bank. Eyes bigger than your belly? Go for a mix-and-match plate of two flavours ($33). Conversely, if you’re feeling something a little more substantial, pad out your order with a serving of garlicky spare rib rice ($28) or turnip cake (蘿蔔糕; lo4 baak6 gou1; $20).
Superior Steamed Rice Roll Pro Shop, 384 Portland Street, Prince Edward| (+852) 2380 7790
Technically, Under Vacuum isn’t one restaurant, but two—The Steak and The Hangout. Both specialise in affordable, accessible sous vide food, but The Steak is more meat-focused, while The Hangout serves a wider range of food, from slow-cooked meats to fusion café fare. Both are casual, friendly neighbourhood spots where you can easily spend a few hours chatting over drinks and snacks—we like the Mexican elote ($38) at The Steak, but we’re hoping they’ll bring back the turnip fries ($18). For something more substantial, we like the US Angus sirloin ($108) from The Steak or the whole rack of BBQ baby back ribs ($228) from The Hangout.
Under Vacuum The Steak, 91 Prince Edward Road West, Prince Edward | (+852) 5690 3290
Under Vacuum The Hangout, 15–19 Poplar Street, Prince Edward | (+852) 2468 2705
If you have an appetite for fusion eats and quirky, irreverent art, we recommend Baofanji, a hip burger joint that’s extremely vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. There’s no room for purism here with mains like the sweet & sour deep-fried chicken burger ($66) which comes with a caramelised slice of pineapple, but who cares when something like the confit duck burger ($66) with hoisin sauce and cucumber exists? There are plenty of plant-based options on the specials board too—the spicy mapo tofu burger ($78), for starters—but vegan diners will be pleased to hear that Baofanji has added a dedicated plant-based section to the permanent menu.
If you’re not in the mood for savouries, check out the butterscotch & peanut French toast ($66) which is made from super-thick homemade brioche and topped with peanut-flavoured ice cream and lashings of condensed milk.
Baofanji, 254 Tung Choi Street, Prince Edward | (+852) 2656 5605
For those who enjoy all things sour and spicy, Prince Edward has two great affordable and under-the-radar options. The first is Jun Jun Ho Ho Mei (more commonly known as 津津好好味), a family-run restaurant specialising in Sichuan-style wontons in chilli oil (紅油抄手; hung4 yau2 chaau1 sau2), which come in small ($21) or large ($32) portions, both of which are pretty generous—the large consists of about 20 dumplings. For something soupy and warming to slurp up on a cold day, get the coriander-flecked sour & spicy noodles ($18), which you can upgrade with a dollop of fried soybean paste or pork intestines for an extra $8 or $14, respectively.
If you’re keen on Jun Jun’s flavours, but prefer your noodles to have a bit more chew and bounce, head on over to Twins Liangpi on Cedar Street instead. This shop, which is run by two sisters—hence the name—specialises in liangpi (凉皮), a cold noodle-esque dish made from flat, ribbon-like sheets. The liangpi here is made fresh from potato starch, which gives it a crystal-clear appearance. The menu is limited, but it’s still tempting to umm and ahh over toppings and noodle types—for your first visit, stick with the signature Twins liangpi ($28), which comes in a bright sour and spicy sauce comprised of housemade chilli oil and black vinegar, and topped with coriander, spring onion, and crispy peanuts.
津津好好味, 51 Cheung Sha Wan Road, Prince Edward | (+852) 6906 9933
Twins Liangpi Limited, 15 Cedar Street, Prince Edward
At first glance, this looks like a regular neighbourhood hole-in-the-wall—but Ah Chun Shandong Dumpling has actually been given a Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide for its fresh Northern Chinese dumplings, which are handmade every day. Whet your appetite with a cold plate of shredded chicken with mung bean sheets ($28) before digging into the hearty boiled spicy leek & lamb dumplings ($52). If you have room for more, we also recommend the chive & pork meat pocket ($26), which is like the OG Chinese version of a hot pocket.
Ah Chun Shandong Dumpling, 60 Lai Chi Kok Road, Prince Edward | (+852) 2789 9611
Tim Ho Wan may be more famous, but locals swear that this neighbourhood yum cha spot is just as good, if not better. One Dim Sum is often touted as a Michelin-starred restaurant, which isn’t true (anymore)—but that doesn’t stop it from drawing long, snaking queues out front on Sunday mornings (and most other days during non-pandemic times). There are far, far more hits than misses on the menu, but if you are being economical with your time and order, then the all-star lineup has got to be the deep-fried glutinous dumplings ($18), prawn dumplings ($32), and siu mai ($30).
One Dim Sum, 209A–209B Tung Choi Street, Prince Edward | (+852) 2677 7888
If you find yourself in Prince Edward with a craving for something sweet and buttery, you cannot leave without visiting Kam Wah Café. This cha chaan teng (茶餐廳; Hong Kong-style diner) has been around since 1973, and its crispy-topped pineapple buns are known for being some of the best in town. Kam Wah’s also famous for its pineapple bun stuffed with a slab of butter (菠蘿油; bo1 lo4 jau4), egg tarts, and French toast.
Kam Wah Café, G/F, 47 Bute Street, Prince Edward | (+852) 2392 6830
Calling all dessert lovers—this cosy new café and roastery on Sai Yee Street is a dream come true for those with sweet tooths, with plenty of homemade baked goods and snacks galore. Although Tuned does do savoury food—we’ve heard the eggy carbonara ($110) and garlic & cream cheese bun ($45) are great—the real draw here is the dessert menu.
One of our favourite sweets is the chestnut Mont Blanc pudding ($76), which appears to be a regular Mont Blanc at first glance—with oodles of creamy chestnut vermicelli dusted with powdered sugar—but the creamy purée actually tops a sponge cake with fresh cream, meringue, and ice cream, giving the Piedmontese dessert a fun twist. Meanwhile, the seashell waffle ($88) is a delightful exercise in contrast, with the freshly baked waffle containing a fluffy, eggy interior within its crisp shell, while the caramelised banana and vanilla ice cream served on the side go beautifully with the hot waffle.
Tuned Coffee & Roastery, Shop B, Hung Tak Building, 163–163A Sai Yee Street, Prince Edward
If eating a literal slab of butter doesn’t appeal to you, consider this charming pâtisserie in the Flower Market, which somehow manages to create vegan mille-feuilles and éclairs that taste just like the real deal. Bien Caramélisé is not taking reservations at the moment, so head there early if you want to grab a seat (and make sure to order whatever you want to try at least 72 hours ahead of time).
Bien Caramélisé, Shop D, 1/F, 160 Prince Edward Road West, Prince Edward | (+852) 5239 5198
Crispy on the outside, light and airy on the inside, and oh-so-easy to wolf down, we could waffle on about egg waffles (雞蛋仔; gai1 daan2 zai2) forever—but we won’t, because we need to better utilise that time by queueing for More Eggettes. Besides the original egg waffles ($18), More Eggettes also offers a signature chocolate starry ($28) variant—which comes with little cereal stars in each individual puff—as well as more off-beat options like seaweed & pork floss ($25) and spicy pizza ($28).
More Eggettes, Shop B2, G/F, 17 Yu Chau Street, Prince Edward
Feeling a little frazzled? Take a breather at Feed Your Nerves, a zen, pet-friendly two-storey café with a mini lifestyle store upstairs. Sip on an iced mocha ($48) while gazing at their display racks of trinkets, ceramics, and beautiful dried flower bundles, or check out the ever-changing menu of Japanese-inspired bites—recent dishes include crab and mentaiko spaghetti, lemongrass pork cutlet rice, and shredded chicken buckwheat noodles.
Feed Your Nerves, G/F, 434 Portland Street, Prince Edward
If industrial chic Japanese aesthetics, artisanal coffee, and smooth spirits make your heart skip a beat, don’t miss Coffee Analog. If you need somewhere quiet to read, chat, or just rest, come in for a single-origin pour-over coffee and a slice of mystery cake ($55). With its dark wood furnishings and sophisticated ambience, Coffee Analog could be a back-street kissaten—and later in the day, those same characteristics lend themselves incredibly well to the café’s second life as a whisky bar. There’s more whisky on the shelves than we can even begin to touch on, but rest assured that every bottle has been carefully selected by local whisky purveyors Malt Cask, who manage the bar side of the business.
Coffee Analog, 169 Sai Yeung Choi Street North, Prince Edward
You may have seen this secret garden-style café on Wyndham Street, but the original branch was established right here, in Prince Edward’s famous flower market, over 10 years ago. This serene café deals in potted plants and floral bouquets as well as slow-drip ice coffees, fresh pots of organic tea, and homemade cakes and pastries. Looking to cultivate a green thumb? Pop in on one of Hay Fever’s regular floral workshops to try your hand under the supervision of verified pros.
Café Hay Fever, 62–64 Flower Market Road, Prince Edward | (+852) 2397 0668
Prince Edward’s “Bar Street” has got plenty of watering holes for you to choose from—but the coolest one by far is Bound. While a recent refurb means former hallmarks—the neon “新浪漫” (san1 long6 maan6; “new romance“) and crucifix signs, the intricate Kristopher Ho murals, and the sticky note-covered wall behind the bar—are gone, this artsy café-slash-bar is still as charming as ever, with a striking shopfront decked out in a visually arresting shade of cobalt blue. Drop by in the afternoon for an affogato ($50) or swing by at night to enjoy the indie music playlist over a couple of bevvies. Besides the standards—wines, spirits, etc—Bound’s drinks menu has loads of interesting craft beers and signature cocktails. Try the potent New Romance (Yuk Bing Siu rice liquor, Yakult, and homemade strawberry jam; $88) if you have a sweet tooth, or the Baileys White Russian ($88) to live your best Big Lebowski life.
Bound Kowloon, 32 Boundary Street, Prince Edward | (+852) 2396 6488
Another neon-lit café-slash-bar on Boundary Street is Fong Waa Parlour, a two-storey Thai restaurant that swaps beef boat noodles ($88) and massaman curry ($78) for shisha pipes and cocktails come nightfall. Nibble on Thai chicken wings ($78) between whisky green teas and games of darts during happy hour, or come by at mealtimes for a grilled pork neck rice ($88) with a Milo dinosaur to wash it all down.
Fong Waa Parlour, 36 Boundary Street, Prince Edward | (+852) 2366 2113