Costumes
There’s no doubt that the flashy garments are a big part of what makes Chinese opera so visually arresting. But what the uninitiated may not realise is that the clothing is also indicative of each character’s role, gender, and social status.
In the earlier days of xiqu, there were no conventions governing performance costumes. It was only until after the Qing dynasty, when there was a lot more exchanging and blending between Cantonese and Peking opera, when the costumes became much more striking, with sequins, bright colours, beads, or even tiny light bulbs galore. Embroidered costumes are mainly used now.
There are many types of Chinese operatic costumes, but they can mostly be grouped into two categories: mun and mo. Mun costumes are usually less intricate, and either buttoned or tied to the side. These are worn to represent more casual or day-to-day environments, such as a scholar having a conversation within his study. Mo costumes are what audiences typically envision when thinking of Chinese opera, consisting of elaborate pieces with ornaments to match. These are worn by characters under special circumstances, such as battles, weddings, or important missions.
A particularly attention-grabbing part of the mo costume is a highly ornate headpiece with five-foot-long pheasant feathers. Characters who wear this headpiece are generally zhengyin wusheng warriors in charge of troops, but it can also be used to portray emotions. For example, the actor will jerk their head sharply to make the feathers twitch, called “nodding the feathers,” to signal surprise. Dancing with the feathers is done to display anger and determination, and will often be seen in a sequence where the character is about to go into battle.
Another great example of Chinese opera costumes is water sleeves, the name for the silk extensions on garments’ sleeves worn by both male and female characters. These can be used to signify a variety of emotions and transitions and is a technique that takes years to master. Water sleeves can show male and female greetings, anger, the hiding of emotions, running, weeping, and even more specific points, such as sending people away, or a character making their mind up. When not in use, skilful performers need only flick their wrists a few times to have their long water sleeves folded and resting neatly on their forearms.