It was from the Mandalay Jetty (on Strand Road between 35th and 26th Street) that we first observed the mighty Irrawaddy dotted with colourful ferries loaded with all manner of produce, jostling for mooring space alongside double-decker, long-distance cargo boats that reminded one of grand old Mississippi paddle-steamers. The jetty was bustling with activities—villagers carrying huge loads on their heads boarded boats via narrow gangplanks with the agility of tightrope walkers, and bare-chested youths loaded sacks of vegetables to completely cover the cabin tops.
We decided to take a day trip from Mandalay to the abandoned ruins of Mingun, an ancient township 11 kilometres upstream. There are no scheduled departures for these smaller ferries—they leave when they're full, which generally doesn't take long.
The wait, however, is all part of the experience and we settled down to watch the fun. Hawkers boarded carrying woven platters of fresh pineapple slices, boiled eggs and rice cakes to sell. We were treated to a lively haggling session, the first buyer was aware she would set the price for the entire boat, and everyone took part in the bidding with plenty of ‘oohs’ and ‘ahs’.